deadchip12 wrote: Sun Jun 29, 2025 11:43 pm
... a powerful router to handle 4k ...
Not really, only WiFi 5 (802.11ac) 5.4GHz is required. If needed, just mix in a 5.4GHz WiFi 5 "mini repeater". It might work fine straight to the Ugoos through a couple walls, but I've never tried it.
* You _CANNOT_ use the 2.4GHz compatibility/IoT band.
DoVi Script and keeping with the Dolby Atmos track as it is, i use the app and it now finally works like a treat however, i use Infuse to watch them and i got my HomePods together and i know the audio track is Dolby Atmos however it shows up Dolby True HD 7.1 and yet i have an Atmos track on Infuse , why's that and what do i need to use to keep the Dolby Atmos track rather than True HD?
djanvi2020 wrote: Sat Jul 05, 2025 8:48 am
new question,
DoVi Script and keeping with the Dolby Atmos track as it is, i use the app and it now finally works like a treat however, i use Infuse to watch them and i got my HomePods together and i know the audio track is Dolby Atmos however it shows up Dolby True HD 7.1 and yet i have an Atmos track on Infuse , why's that and what do i need to use to keep the Dolby Atmos track rather than True HD?
deadchip12 wrote: Sat Apr 26, 2025 2:42 pm
Just used your files to test black crush.
SDR looked the most accurate—I could see all the flashing bars up to 65 from my seat (1.2m from the 65-inch TV). HDR10 crushed blacks more; in order to see the 65 bar, I had to move my face closer to the screen.
Dolby Vision was by far the worst—I could barely see past the 90 bar.
Then, I realized why. A few months ago, an update caused black screens in Dolby Vision to no longer appear as true black. Based on recommendations from forum users, I lowered the RGB-Bias to -4 in the advanced color settings to counteract this. When I raised it back from -4 to 0, I could see the bars up to 67 if I moved closer to the screen. So, it still crushes blacks more than HDR10 but is better. The problem is that black is no longer true black again.
Do you have any solutions for this?
If I'm not mistaken, you should see 66–67 flashing from a normal distance, and 65 only when looking about one foot away from the screen. Of course, all of this is in a dark room without lights.
Wrong.
Bar 64 is reference black. Bar 64 and everything below it should be black. Bar 65 and 66 should also be impossible to see it flashing. The first visible bar should be 67. But barely with your nose on the screen. This is all written down in the Calman calibration guide you can find on the Internet.
I did some testing yesterday and noticed something.
I played @RESET9999 near black flashing bar test pattern in hdr10 on my lg c9 (via built in media player) and compared it against my sony a95l (via the Ugoos). The c9 had noticeably brighter near blacks than the a95l. I could even see the 65 bar flashing from a normal viewing distance on the c9, which I suppose indicated near blacks being too bright based on the documentation you posted.
However, when I played some dark scenes from a movie like Furiosa, the c9 looked a lot more natural and "correct" to my eyes thanks to all the shadow details being visible with proper gradation, while the a95l looked crushed.
If I'm not mistaken, you should see 66–67 flashing from a normal distance, and 65 only when looking about one foot away from the screen. Of course, all of this is in a dark room without lights.
Wrong.
Bar 64 is reference black. Bar 64 and everything below it should be black. Bar 65 and 66 should also be impossible to see it flashing. The first visible bar should be 67. But barely with your nose on the screen. This is all written down in the Calman calibration guide you can find on the Internet.
I did some testing yesterday and noticed something.
I played @RESET9999 near black flashing bar test pattern in hdr10 on my lg c9 (via built in media player) and compared it against my sony a95l (via the Ugoos). The c9 had noticeably brighter near blacks than the a95l. I could even see the 65 bar flashing from a normal viewing distance on the c9, which I suppose indicated near blacks being too bright based on the documentation you posted.
However, when I played some dark scenes from a movie like Furiosa, the c9 looked a lot more natural and "correct" to my eyes thanks to all the shadow details being visible with proper gradation, while the a95l looked crushed.
I would also prefer more detail over perfect blacks. So yeah, I would prefer flashing of bar 65 over flashing of bar 70 (just an example).
LG OLED65G1RLA / Samsung HW-Q990D / Panasonic UB820 / Ugoos AM6B+ (CE with avdvplus Build)
Hi RESET_9999 ,
Karate Kid Legends has got both DV8 and HDR10+
I want to remove HDR10+ and use your scripts workflow 2-2
Everyhting was done and the resulting file is "Karate Kid Legends_HDR10plus_removed". But why his framerate is 25.000 fps whilst the original movie is 23.976 fps?
Thanks
Your video is missing the framerate at the bitstream level. You can fix it in 9-2
This used to be the case with all the Apple WEB-DL, but now, all the reputable groups fix it.
ragico wrote: Fri Jul 11, 2025 10:15 pm
Hi RESET_9999 ,
Karate Kid Legends has got both DV8 and HDR10+
I want to remove HDR10+ and use your scripts workflow 2-2
Everyhting was done and the resulting file is "Karate Kid Legends_HDR10plus_removed". But why his framerate is 25.000 fps whilst the original movie is 23.976 fps?
Thanks
@RESET_9999
Usually, with the full uhd bluray disc (bdmv folder), I just find the main playlist with BDInfo, put it in mkvtoolnix and convert it to mkv to watch the movie on the ugoos, but now if I want to watch Special Features/Bonus Contents as well, what should I do?
The colorist can choose a tuning parameter that controls the aggressiveness of Dolby Vision tone mapping. Lower values result in less tone mapping and a brighter image, while higher values apply more aggressive tone mapping, resulting in a darker image.
RESET_9999 wrote: Sun Jul 13, 2025 8:28 am
p5 or p8 doesnt matter. they have the same metadata
Do these plots look normal (it's Dune Prophecy)? :
bluray's madvr plot:
web's madvr plot:
web's DoVi plot:
What is the point of generating DoVi plot if it always looks different from the other two?
You've uploaded the web dovi plot twice.
If you are wondering why the madvr plot looks different to the Dovi plot, it's because DV (& HDR10+) metadata are meant to be used during playback for tone mapping. They don't always represent the actual brightness (1:1) of the shots. madmeasureHDR.exe will always be more representative of the actual brightness.
RESET_9999 wrote: Sun Jul 13, 2025 8:28 am
p5 or p8 doesnt matter. they have the same metadata
Do these plots look normal (it's Dune Prophecy)? :
bluray's madvr plot:
web's madvr plot:
web's DoVi plot:
What is the point of generating DoVi plot if it always looks different from the other two?
You've uploaded the web dovi plot twice.
If you are wondering why the madvr plot looks different to the Dovi plot, it's because DV (& HDR10+) metadata are meant to be used during playback for tone mapping. They don't always represent the actual brightness (1:1) of the shots. madmeasureHDR.exe will always be more representative of the actual brightness.
Yeah my bad. That was supposed to be the web's hdr10 madvr plot, which looked similar to the bluray's one, meaning the transfer can be done.
I just wondered why we needed to generate the dovi plot here if they would look different to the madvr plot anyway.
