bbeny123 wrote: ↑Tue May 27, 2025 6:00 pm
So the artistic impact of those L2 trims would be minimal?
In your opinion, is it better to go for higher brightness by eliminating the too early tone mapping issue in CM v2.9, rather than keeping the version with manually tuned L2 trims?
It depends on how strongly the colorist adjusted them. I’ve seen many 100 nits trim passes that make the image brighter than the master (HDR10 encode). It seems some colorists are not aware and/or are not monitoring the interpolation to the 600–1000 nits target when they do the SDR trim. The trim’s purpose is to adjust Dolby’s default tone mapping (L1) when it deviates from the artistic intent, which is the 12-bit master.
Making the trims different/brighter from the master doesn’t make much sense and is not recommended in Dolby best practice because this trim will affect more displays with lower targets, and higher-nits displays won’t even see that trim’s effect.
There is a way for the colorist to be more aggressive on the 100 nits trim without affecting the other targets. When you see an RPU with a blank 600 and/or 1000 nits trim, this is exactly what the colorist did.
When I create trims for my own work, I always start by making the 600 nits trim blank, and then I go through all the shots and adjust my 100 nits trim. This way, I know that whatever I do in 100 nits will not affect my other targets. When I’m working on a shot that exceeds 600 nits in the scopes, then I can either unblank the 600 nits trim and let the 100 nits interpolation do its work, or better, adjust the 600 nits trim.
FYI, you can use my script workflow 7-4 to make L1 vs L1-L2 comparison of any frame: I already did many here:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... dMiy2ka0mf